Philips QT4022

This evening I was working on a battery replacement for a Philips QT4022 hair trimmer for my friend. They don’t seem to make this model any more, it was hard to find useful info about them. I made some notes over here. In the end I accidentally released the magic smoke, but at least I got some practice using my soldering iron and my microscope (this evening I learned how to take photos with my microscope and transfer them to my computer, haven’t done that before).

I did start off making a video about this, but it all went very badly, so I’m not gonna be publishing that one. :P

I learned a few lessons:

  1. take photos of the circuit board before you take to it with a soldering iron. This is so that if you damage the circuit board or the silk screen you can still read the component markings on the photo even if you damage the board.
  2. use the max current and max voltage settings on the power supply and don’t exceed sensible values for those. (200mA for DC motor is a sensible limit, 6A is not.)
  3. if you’re dealing with a circuit that has batteries soldered in, and you’re attempting to desolder the batteries, you need to be careful the solder doesn’t melt and create a short circuit, because it can, and it will.

My soldering skills are pretty poor at the moment. What I need is lots of practice. I’m not sure what the best tips or the best temperatures are yet. I accidentally lifted some SMD components because I used too much heat too close to them.

RIP Philips trimmer.

Loctite Tak Pak

Over on How To Repair Damaged / Broken PCB Traces – 2 Great Methods, Mr SolderFix says that Loctite Tak Pak is good PCB glue. He recommends the Loctite SF 7455 activator, and the Loctite 382 instant adhesive. I tried to find some for purchase but it’s only available via international shipping and costs a fortune.

I have some glue in my drawer, particularly 24x 3G Super Glue for Plastic, Leather, Ceramics, Rubber, Metal, Wood Super Glue. Might give that a go for wiring a bodge wire to a PCB to see if it works okay or not.

Complex Programmable Logic Device

ChatGPT explains a Complex Programmable Logic Device (CPLD):

A CPLD (Complex Programmable Logic Device) is a type of digital integrated circuit that is used for creating custom digital logic designs. It’s a step between simple PLDs (Programmable Logic Devices) and more complex FPGAs (Field-Programmable Gate Arrays).

Click through for further details.

Number pad

I have various workspaces in my lab, and I call one of them my “booth”. It’s called the booth because I use it when I need to take photos of things which I’m selling on eBay, usually Xbox consoles or games.

Anyway the booth is also setup with two video cameras, one for a view of the booth bench and the other for a view of my face while I am working in the booth. There’s a retractable drawer bolted under the booth bench too which is full of breadboard jumper wires, so this is the place where I do some of my electronics projects, particularly my Maxitronix X in 1 projects. It’s also a convenient workspace when I’m breadboarding something, as I have ready access to my component drawers above.

Today I’ve installed a number pad in the booth so that I can control my cameras in OBS Studio while I’m working at that bench:

Costume

I was chatting with my brother about my new video blog and he said I should do something to make myself distinctive, so I thought a lab coat, ID badge on lanyard, and pocket protector full of tools would do the trick.

To that end I got myself a lab coat, set of five multicolored lanyards, a pocket protector, and a screwdriver with clip.

Cosplay! I’m such a nerd. :P

My inspiration was mostly Stetmann of StarCraft II fame, although my outfit isn’t exactly the same.

I made some ID badges for myself, I figured I could give myself various job titles and choose a different one from time to time…

Studio upgrade

The computer I’m using to do the recording for In The Lab With Jay Jay is called ‘wonder‘ and it only has six USB ports. I currently have ten USB cameras, and I’m getting more, so I don’t have as many USB ports as I can use. Also ‘wonder’ only has 2TB capacity (non-RAID) for storing the videos I record, which will probably get used up fairly quickly.

So I have been planning an upgrade for ‘wonder’ known as ‘victory‘. My new studio workstation ‘victory’ will have 52TB of RAID storage for video data, 2TB of SSD RAID storage for video recording, 12x USB ports on the back panel, and 4x USB ports on the front panel.

Along with this new studio workstation I intend to get a new camera, a Canon Rebel SL3.

Now all I need to do is save up a cool eight grand!

Fuse access

I rewired my ATX power supply breakout board so that I would have ready access to the fuses. Probably gonna blow a few of those! The fuses are 5A 250V fast blow (F5A250V) so I can’t draw more than 60 Watts (at 12V). You can see in the previous post and the picture at the bottom of this post that the terminals used to be connected above the fuses, impeding access.

The ATX power supply breakout board is a Geekcreit® XH-M229 Desktop Computer Chassis Power Supply Module ATX Transfer Board Power Output Terminal Module.

This is the new setup:
ATX power supply breakout board with 3.3V, 5V, and 12V wiring

This is the old setup:
Previously the fuses weren't accessible