Low-Water Indicator | Project 17/20 | Maxitronix 20in1 | In The Lab With Jay Jay

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In this video we do the 17th project from the Maxitronix Sensor Robot 20 (20in1) Electronics Project Lab Kit: Low-Water Indicator.

We use the Rigol MSO5074 Mixed Signal Oscilloscope to see the output of the astable multivibrator. In the video I make a mistake and attach the probe to the wrong pins.

We use the METCAL PS-900 Soldering Station to solder the wires I use for the banana plugs I attach to the touch sensor an voice sensor (microphone).

We use the UNI-T UTi260B Thermal Imager to look at the heat profile of the circuit. We see that the low resistances (470Ω and 1KΩ) get the warmest, but the higher resistances (e.g. 10KΩ) are also slightly visible.

We use the Fluke 17B+ Digital Multimeter to check the resistance of the touch sensor.

We use the Peak Electronic Design Atlas LCR45 LCR Meter to measure the resistance of the resistor we use in the LED attachment circuit. This extra circuit allows us to switch out the buzzer for an LED, which makes a lot less racket. The resistor it uses turned out to be 470Ω.

We use the Riden RD6006 Bench Power Supply to provide 9V for our test circuit. Usually I take a current reading to see how much power the circuit draws in its various states, but I forgot!

We use the Horusdy Soldering Station with Hot Air Gun for its hot air gun in order to shrink the heat shrink which we added to the banana plug cables we attached to our sensors.

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)





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Yum Cha 9-Inch Needle Nose PliersThis is an image of the product.notes

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Extra Content #10: Cleaning, Testing, and Filing Through-Hole Resistors and Capacitors | In The Lab

This post is part of my video blog and you can find more information about this video over here.

You can support this channel on Patreon: patreon.com/JohnElliotV

In this video I clean, test, and file a bunch of resistors and ceramic capacitors.

During this video I mention the Peak Atlas test instruments. I don’t own these yet, but they are on my wishlist!

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)


Following is a product I use picked at random from my collection which may appear in my videos. Clicking through on this to find and click on the green affiliate links before purchasing from eBay or AliExpress is a great way to support the channel at no cost to you. Thanks!

Dremel 335 Plunge RouterThis is an image of the product.notes

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Quality capacitors: Nichicon

Note to self: I was watching EEVblog #378 – Dumpster Diving Teardown Repair and EEVblog #763 – Dumpster Plasma TV Bad Cap Repair and Dave Jones says Nichicon make high quality capacitors. Apparently Panasonic, Nippon Chemi-Con, Rubycon, and Cornell Dubilier are also good.

Early Content #11: Demo of the ALKOY Capacitor Discharge Pen | In The Lab With Jay Jay

This post is part of my video blog and you can find more information about this video on this show’s homepage which is here.

You can support this channel on Patreon: patreon.com/JohnElliotV

In this video I demo my new ALKOY Capacitor Discharge Pen.

The bench multimeter I use in this video is my OWON XDM1041 and the bench power supply is my RIDEN RD6006.

The demo circuit used a 1KΩ 1/4W resistor, a 25V 330μF electrolytic capacitor, and an 18V supply.

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe!


Following is a product I use picked at random from my collection which may appear in my videos. Clicking through on this to find and click on the green affiliate links before purchasing from eBay or AliExpress is a great way to support the channel at no cost to you. Thanks!

Yum Cha Heat Shrink Wire ConnectorsThis is an image of the product.

Let’s go shopping!

Removing PowerStor Aerogel from OGXbox

Today I watched PSA: Your Original Xbox may be ROTTING AWAY right now… which explained how to remove the PowerStor Aerogel cap from an OGXbox. These capacitors are known to leak and cause corrosion. Indeed when I popped the motherboard out of my console the PowerStor had pissed itself all over the board. So I desoldered it and took it out and cleaned up its mess with a liberal application of isopropyl. I was thinking I’d replace it with a new component but I found this which basically said it’s cheaper and more reliable to just leave it out. So up next is replacing the 3000uF 6.3V caps next to the CPU, I’ve ordered a bunch of these ones, which I hope will do the trick!

Below you can see the dead cap. It’s a bit blurry but you can see the corrosion. I’m gonna start a collection!