Electronics Project #15: Making Project Board for Learning the Art of Electronics | In The Lab

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Silly Job Title: Joule Juggler.

In this video we make a project board for use in our Learning the Art of Electronics projects.

In the beginning I mention a few things which have arrived from AliExpress:

We use one of the ElectroCookie Large PCB Prototype Boards and attach female pin header and male pin header. The flux I use is AMTECH NC-559-ASM and my solder is Loctite (Multicore) 60/40 C511 5C 0.56mm.

We use the METCAL PS-900 Soldering Station to for soldering.

We use the Fluke 17B+ Digital Multimeter for continuity testing.

We use the Horusdy Soldering Station with Hot Air Gun to try to melt our flux, unsuccessfully. It turned out the problem I was having with the flux wasn’t that it had hardened in its tube, but that the nozzle had become clogged. When I cleared the nozzle the trouble I was having dispensing the flux went away and the flux flowed freely.

We use the Hakko CHP 3C-SA Precision Tweezers to place our pin header.

We use the Plato Model 170 Wire Cutter to cut solder.

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)


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Electronics Project #14: AC Power Supply from Sanyo RM6018 Clock Radio | In The Lab With Jay Jay

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Silly Job Title: Current Connoisseur.

In this video we take the transformer from the power system of the Sanyo RM-6018 AM/FM Digital Clock Radio which we’ve been tearing down and put it safely in a project box complete with banana plug sockets, illuminated power switch, and power cable.

This is the project box we use: Project Junction Box for Electrical Cable Outdoor DIY Sealed IP67 Enclosure Wire Box 115x90x55mm Waterproof Electronic Cases (158x90x75mm).

This is the power switch we use: 5/20Pcs KCD4 Switch DPST 4/6Pin ON OFF Rocker Switch Toggle Switch with Led Light 16A 250V AC 25x31mm (Red 4PIN).

These are the banana plug sockets we use: 50Pcs/lot 4mm Binding Post Banana Test Connector 4mm Banana Female Socket Plug Terminals DIY Adapter Red Black Green Yellow Blue.

These are the lugs we use for the mains power wiring: 280pcs/set Cable Lugs Assortment Kit Wire Flat Female and Male Insulated Electric Wire Cable Connectors Crimp Terminals Set Kit (we use the yellow ones which are the largest).

This is the wire we use for output power wiring: 20 22 24 26awg ( 5 colors Mix Solid core Wire Kit ) Tinned Copper Electrical line Cable wires PCB Wire DIY (22 AWG).

These are the lugs we use for the output power wiring: 100Pcs 2.8mm 4.8mm 6.3mm Plug Spring Female Male Spade Cold Crimp Terminals Connector Car Speaker Electrical Wire Connectors Set (2.8mm, Gold-Male, Gold-Female, Sheath).

These are the M2 nuts and bolts we use for securing the transformer to the base: Total 400/650/1140/2100X M1.6 M2 M2.5 M3 M4 M5 304 Stainless Steel Hexagon Hex Socket Cap Head Screw Bolt Nut Set Assortment Kit (Set D 2100pcs).

We use the METCAL PS-900 Soldering Station for soldering.

We use the Fluke 17B+ Digital Multimeter to test the AC power output.

We use the Horusdy Soldering Station with Hot Air Gun to shrink our heat shrink.

We use the Bosch IXO VI Electric Screwdriver to install our screws.

We use the Brother P-Touch D210 Label Maker to make labels for our project box.

We use the Scotch Titanium Scissors to cut open various baggies.

We use the Carpenter Mechanical Pencil to mark out where we will cut or drill.

We use the Hakko CHP 3C-SA Precision Tweezers to work with our small M2 nuts and bolts and other things.

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)

A view of the inside of the project box with wiring complete.


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Electronics Project #13: Sanyo AM/FM Digital Clock Radio RM6018 Teardown Part 1 | In The Lab

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Silly Job Title: Note Taker.

In this video we teardown an old Sanyo RM6018 clock radio which I found on the street when I was walking home the other day. A search for LM8560 datasheet turns up a lot of interesting info. The LM8560 is what implements the clock part of the circuit. The radio is separate. We’re looking at the clock first, might have a look at the radio some other time. I have ordered some parts from AliExpress so that I can do part 2 of this video, so stand by for that.

We use the METCAL PS-900 Soldering Station for some spot soldering.

We use the Pro’sKit SS-331H Desoldering Pump to to remove some wires.

We use the Fluke 17B+ Digital Multimeter to test the battery.

We use the Riden RD6006 Bench Power Supply to deliver power for testing.

We use the Bosch IXO VI Electric Screwdriver to remove the screws from the case.

Shout out to my mate @nanofix who I mention in this video. If you’re interested in reballing he has a lot to teach you! Check out his Ultimate Microsoldering Tool Guide, particularly for hints about cleaning supplies.

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)


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Electronics Project #12: Making an LED Heart | Learning Electronics In The Lab With Jay Jay

This post is part of my video blog and you can find more information about this video over here.

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Silly Job Title: Bit Distinguisher.

In this video we build an LED heart. It is beautiful and green.

The schematic and instructions are these:

Instructions in Chinese

Schematic in Chinese

As we discover in the video this circuit is an astable multivibrator made with two op-amps provided by an LM358.

I mention that my copy of Learning the Art of Electronics: A Hands-On Lab Course 2nd Edition has arrived. Very happy about that! I will be getting on with the notes for these very soon.

I mention about the two Logitech BRIOs that I have installed as my “maths cam”. This will enable me to record my maths videos, which I am planning to start soon. I will be working through my old high school mathematics textbooks starting with Signpost 7.

I mentioned my Spivak calculus book, and my Stewart calculus book too, but I can’t seem to find my copy of that at Amazon. If you’re interested in such things check out Calculus by Spivak from Learning as a hobby.

We use the METCAL PS-900 Soldering Station for soldering.

We use the Peak Electronic Design Atlas DCA75 Pro Semiconductor Analyzer to check our NPN transistor.

We use the Peak Electronic Design Atlas LCR45 LCR Meter to check our resistors and capacitor.

We use the Riden RD6006 Bench Power Supply to provide 5V for testing.

We use the Yizhan Digital Microscope to have a closer look at a few things.

We use the Hakko CHP 3C-SA Precision Tweezers for working with small parts.

I mention about these bins which I have purchased recently. They are cheap and a good size but my experience is that the material is very brittle and prone to breaking.

And love to Nirvana for Heart-Shaped Box. 💕

Also, here’s the full list of my ESP32 boards:

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)


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Electronics Project #11: TJ-56-428 4-Digit Digital DIY Clock Take 2 | In The Lab With Jay Jay

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Silly Job Title: Wattage Warlock.

In this video we build the TJ-56-428 4-Digit Digital Clock just like we did last time.

You read that right. We made one of these before and I liked it so much that we are making one again! I get better at it this time round, I don’t make any of the mistakes I did last time.

In the introduction to this video I mention about my new Blu-ray player which I got so I could watch Colossus: The Forbin Project. Both my Blu-ray disc and my Blu-ray player are for Region B.

As I mention I have been writing for Hackaday! So that’s been keeping me busy.

The instructions for this clock are over here: TJ-56-428 4-Digit Digital DIY Clock (same as last time).

I mention about the new Learning the Art of Electronics project which we’re just about to get started with.

The microcontroller in this clock is the STC15W404AS. It comes in the kit pre-programmed and I’ve not been able to find the software anywhere. Bummer. If you know where to get the software please do let me know!

The temperature controlled resistor is a 10K NTC thermistor which seems to be used for the room temperature function (which I don’t use and didn’t calibrate).

The crystal oscillator is spec’ed as 32768 which is obviously a reference to the clock frequency. See Why do we use 32.768 kHz crystals in most circuits? We check the impedance of this device in the video using the Peak Atlas LCR45.

In the video I mention my mate Joe who helped me out last time I did this project. Thanks Joe!

We use the METCAL PS-900 Soldering Station to do our soldering.

We use the Fluke 17B+ Digital Multimeter to test the voltage on our USB power adapters.

We use the EEVblog BM2257 Digital Multimeter to check our resistors.

We use the Peak Electronic Design Atlas DCA75 Pro Semiconductor Analyzer to test the crystal (we don’t get a reading, which was expected).

We use the Peak Electronic Design Atlas LCR45 LCR Meter to test our crystal. It gives us an impedance reading at 200kHz with both real and imaginary components.

We use the Hakko CHP 3C-SA Precision Tweezers to hold our solder and poke about. At one point I drop a component lead offcut into the board and it shorted two resistors, so lucky I found it and pulled it out!

And that’s everything to know about this project!

Here’s a photo of the completed project installed next to the symbol keyboard on my desk:

Here's a photo of my clock installed on my desk next to my symbol keyboard.

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)


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Concluding Maxitronix 20in1 | Maxitronix 20in1 | Learning Electronics In The Lab With Jay Jay

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In this video we conclude our Maxitronix 20in1.

The videos we made for this feature of the show:

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)


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Weather Indicator | Project 20/20 | Maxitronix 20in1 | Learning Electronics In The Lab With Jay Jay

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In this video we do the 20th project from the Maxitronix Sensor Robot 20 (20in1) Electronics Project Lab Kit: Weather Indicator.

We use the Rigol MSO5074 Mixed Signal Oscilloscope to have a look at the two square waves from the astable multivibrators.

We use the UNI-T UTi260B Thermal Imager to investigate the circuit’s heat profile.

We use the Riden RD6006 Bench Power Supply to deliver 9V to power the circuit and to report on its current draw.

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)





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Touch Buzzer | Project 19/20 | Maxitronix 20in1 | Learning Electronics In The Lab With Jay Jay

This post is part of my video blog and you can find more information about this video over here.

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In this video we do the 19th project from the Maxitronix Sensor Robot 20 (20in1) Electronics Project Lab Kit: Touch Buzzer.

This circuit uses a Darlington pair to amplify the very weak signal from the touch sensor.

We use the Rigol MSO5074 Mixed Signal Oscilloscope to look at the square wave from the astable multivibrator.

We use the UNI-T UTi260B Thermal Imager to examine the thermal characteristics of the circuit, particularly the 1K resistors getting warm.

We use the Riden RD6006 Bench Power Supply to provide 9V for our circuit and also to measure the current drawn by the circuit in its inactive (11mA) and active (12mA) states.

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)





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Rain Detector | Project 18/20 | Maxitronix 20in1 | Learning Electronics In The Lab With Jay Jay

This post is part of my video blog and you can find more information about this video over here.

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In this video we do the 18th project from the Maxitronix Sensor Robot 20 (20in1) Electronics Project Lab Kit: Rain Detector.

We use the Rigol MSO5074 Mixed Signal Oscilloscope to see the 1.6 kHz square wave from our astable multivibrator.

We use the UNI-T UTi260B Thermal Imager to watch the thermal effects of the circuit. We see both the 1K resistors in the astable multivibrator get warm, but only the activated side of the bistable multivibrator gets warm.

We use the Fluke 17B+ Digital Multimeter to buzz out the circuit looking for mistakes.

We use the Riden RD6006 Bench Power Supply to provide 9V for our circuit. I make a mistake and connect it the wrong way around to begin with!

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)





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Low-Water Indicator | Project 17/20 | Maxitronix 20in1 | In The Lab With Jay Jay

This post is part of my video blog and you can find more information about this video over here.

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In this video we do the 17th project from the Maxitronix Sensor Robot 20 (20in1) Electronics Project Lab Kit: Low-Water Indicator.

We use the Rigol MSO5074 Mixed Signal Oscilloscope to see the output of the astable multivibrator. In the video I make a mistake and attach the probe to the wrong pins.

We use the METCAL PS-900 Soldering Station to solder the wires I use for the banana plugs I attach to the touch sensor an voice sensor (microphone).

We use the UNI-T UTi260B Thermal Imager to look at the heat profile of the circuit. We see that the low resistances (470Ω and 1KΩ) get the warmest, but the higher resistances (e.g. 10KΩ) are also slightly visible.

We use the Fluke 17B+ Digital Multimeter to check the resistance of the touch sensor.

We use the Peak Electronic Design Atlas LCR45 LCR Meter to measure the resistance of the resistor we use in the LED attachment circuit. This extra circuit allows us to switch out the buzzer for an LED, which makes a lot less racket. The resistor it uses turned out to be 470Ω.

We use the Riden RD6006 Bench Power Supply to provide 9V for our test circuit. Usually I take a current reading to see how much power the circuit draws in its various states, but I forgot!

We use the Horusdy Soldering Station with Hot Air Gun for its hot air gun in order to shrink the heat shrink which we added to the banana plug cables we attached to our sensors.

Thanks very much for watching! And please remember to hit like and subscribe! :)





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